High-Altitude Journeys · Route 3 · 2N/3D

Circuit Around Ausangate

One Night Camping (or Basic Local Rooms) + One Night in the Hot Springs

This route is very special—close to our heart, and carrying its own weight for us. Without needing long or difficult treks, we make a full circuit around Ausangate, the highest mountain in the Cusco region. We witness unreal landscapes and rise into very high altitudes. Apu Ausangate holds an exceptionally strong field of nature, culture, and energy.

We pass through dreamlike roads between Indigenous communities living around 4,500 meters. At a point we can reach by vehicle—challenging, but possible—we camp by a very special lake at 4,900 meters, surrounded by peaks that rise toward 6,000 meters. (If you prefer, there is also an option to stay in the simple rooms of a local family about 30 minutes from the lake.) Up there, there is almost no sound—only the voice of the glaciers.

On this route, we cross two very high mountain passes that let us move between the peaks. Finding these passes was not easy—and as far as we can tell, almost no one uses them except us.

And at the end of the journey, we have a beautiful gift: in a stunning landscape, high above Ausangate, we enter the natural hot springs—the mountain’s offering to us.

Important: The altitude is high. You must be properly acclimatized. Especially during the first two days, even though we are in the vehicle, we are continuously traveling between mountain summits.

The Route

Summary

Details

Sacred Valley- Ccascana Lake Road:

I set out from Vamoss Experience (San Salvador). We meet in Pisac (or wherever you prefer), chew a little coca, load your bags into our vehicle, and begin the road. (3,000 m)

We move through the valley—not toward Machu Picchu this time, but in the other direction—covering 90 km in about 1.5 hours until we reach Urcos. After a beautiful breakfast by Lake Urcos, we’re ready to step away from “civilization.”

Once we reach Checacupe Village, we truly leave the main road behind.

For the next 100 km, we travel along the mountain tops. Here we pass through a genuinely special high pass at 5,070 m, moving right beneath Ausangate’s summit. At this pass, we may meet snow—or even a hailstorm.

After the pass, we reach Sibinacocha Lake (4,873 m). This isn’t a place with a “comfortable spot” to relax for long. We take a short pause, and then continue toward our real destination.

The road from the Phinaya Community to the lake is legendary. After about one hour of off-road, we arrive at Ccascana Lake (4,907 m)—surrounded by peaks rising toward 6,000 meters.

And here, in this almost unbelievable place, we spend one night. If the weather allows (so far it always has), we light a fire with the wood we bring, and spend the night by a glacier-held lake.

If you don’t want to sleep in a tent, there is a very simple guesthouse run by a family in the Phinaya Community—we can stay there instead.

5. The Tough Mountain Pass — 5,200 m or 4,800 m

These two passes are the highest gateways in the region—cutting through the peaks of the Vilcanota Range, where many summits rise above 6,000 meters, including Ausangate itself. Thanks to these passes—and our 4x4—we can reach the other side of Ausangate without having to descend all the way toward the Amazon first. The road is demanding, yes, but it opens a rare path.

Those who have spent time in the mountains know: passes like these are powerful points. We arrive, we take a breath, we pause—and then we continue.

From Ccascana Lake to Marcapata, if we connect via the 5,200 m pass (70 km), it’s about 3 hours of high-altitude driving in normal conditions (excluding stops). If we connect via the 4,800 m pass (85 km), it’s also about 3 hours—again, mostly at high altitude. We decide which pass to take on the road, based on weather and road conditions.

Both passes bring us down to the Amazon gateway—Marcapata (2,870 m)—and connect us back to the asphalt road.

Lake Singrenacocha [4.336m]

We travel through the Tinqui Valley and make our way to a turquoise lake called Singrenacocha. In a way, it feels like the younger sibling of Sibinacocha, where we paused the day before. I have never met another tourist at this lake—not even once.

The descent to the lake is a stony, truly off-road track, and it takes about 45 minutes.

By the water, we can stay 1–2 hours, depending on what you feel. This is a beautiful turquoise lake, fed by the glacier waters of Ausangate.

Tinqui- Pacchanta or Upis Road:

In our call before the journey, we decide together whether you prefer Pacchanta or Upis.

From the moment we enter the community road, Ausangate’s magnificent presence begins to grow—bigger and closer with every curve. Both communities are reached by a demanding stone road.

Although it’s only 15 km, it takes about one hour—because along the way we pass through multiple streams and right through the living spaces of people who make their home high in the mountains.

Walking & Hot Springs in Pacchanta or Upis — Ausangate (1 Night)

Both options are truly beautiful and carry a similar essence. The first is a little closer to “tourism,” while the second offers a much more isolated experience. In our call, it will be easy to feel which one is for you.

1. Option One: Pacchanta

At the end of the road we arrive in Pacchanta (4,315 m)—a place travelers choose more often than Upis. (When we say “touristic,” we mean this: we might come across 5–30 other travelers, but we will barely see them during the day.) Compared to Upis, Pacchanta has more developed hot springs (large pools at different temperatures), small shops for basic needs, and relatively better accommodation options.

After dinner prepared by our local auntie (Sra. Brigida), we warm up in the hot springs at 4,315 meters, facing Ausangate’s summit—held by the stars.

Sleeping at this altitude, in a place like this, has its own taste. After a night of silence, sharp cold, stars, and hot springs, we get the chance to enter the waters again in the morning.

After breakfast, we climb to Ausangate 7 Lakes—either on foot, or (if you prefer) by horse (extra payment + advance notice required; no riding experience needed). The ascent (4,315– 4,850 m) is not steep, but it is about 6 km and takes around 3 hours. As we approach Ausangate’s glacier, the landscape becomes breathtaking. Among all the views in South America, I would place this route in the top three—alongside Patagonia’s W Trek and the Uyuni–San Pedro crossing.

We stop wherever we wish, and refresh ourselves with the flowing glacier water.

We return to Pacchanta as the light begins to fade. We enter the hot springs once more, and then begin the return road.

2) Option Two: Upis

At the end of the road we reach the Upis community (4,450 m)—and in the final section there are barely even 10 houses. Almost no tourists come here. The hot spring is very simple and small. There are no shops, and accommodation is truly minimal. We will be with an Indigenous family we are deeply bonded with, living right at the edge of the glacier—extraordinary people. Besides them, we might meet only 3–5 other locals, and that’s all. The Upis option offers a much closer contact with local highland life.

The point we reach by vehicle in Upis is very, very close to the glacier. After dinner prepared by our local auntie (Sra. Calletano), we warm up in the hot spring at 4,450 meters, with Ausangate’s presence and the stars above us.

Sleeping at this altitude, in a place like this, has its own taste. After a night of silence, sharp cold, stars, and hot springs, we get the chance to enter the waters again in the morning.

After breakfast, we walk up to Upis Lake (4,560 m). The climb is not steep and takes only about one hour—bringing us even nearer to Ausangate’s glacier.

By the lake, we stay 2–4 hours, depending on what you feel. The silence and the view here are powerful. From that point on, it’s between Ausangate and us. We have spacious time—for meditation, preparing an offering for Mother Earth, a mapacho and rapé ritual, even swimming in the cold water where pieces of ice drift… if that is what you feel called to.

We return to Upis before dark. We enter the hot springs—of course—one more time, and then begin the return road.

Pacchanta / Upis- Sacred Valley Road:

We return by the main road. We usually set out around 7–8 pm. While you rest—often falling asleep with a beautiful playlist in the background—I drive with quiet joy. We’re usually back around 10 pm.

Sample Program

Our program isn’t fixed—it shapes itself on the road. Still, to help you feel the flow, here is a sample rhythm:

Day 1

07:00
Depart from the Sacred Valley
08:30
Breakfast pleasure by Lake Urcos
09:30
From Checacupe onward, we are up in the highlands
13:00
Lunch at a lake we choose on the way, held by the view
16:00
Setting up camp
18:00
Dinner by the fire, between the glaciers

Day 2

09:00
We pack up camp
11:00
The high mountain pass at 5,200 m
13:00
Lunch in Marcapata
15:00
Singrenacocha Lake
16:30
The climb begins from Tinqui
17:30
Arrival in Pacchanta or Upis—after a route like this, the hot springs feel like a true blessing
19:00
Dinner
Note
We can enjoy the hot springs all night long.

Day 3 (If you choose Pacchanta)

08:00
Breakfast
09:00
Trekking begins (or horseback)
09:30
Mirador Ausangate viewpoint
12:00
Ausangate 7 Lakes
16:30
Dinner
17:15
A little more hot-spring time
18:30
Depart for the return road
21:30
Back in our beds

Day 3 (If you choose Upis)

08:00
Breakfast
10:00
Trekking begins
11:00
Upis Lake
15:00
Late lunch
16:00
A little more hot-spring time
17:30
Depart for the return road
20:30
Back in our beds

What to Bring
  • Sunglasses (polarized if you have them), sunscreen
  • Three warm layers, a beanie, gloves, warm socks
  • Hiking boots, a wind/rain jacket, warm pants, and a plastic rain poncho for heavy rain (especially Dec–Feb)
  • Spare items: socks, underwear, pants, an extra pair of shoes (any kind—just in case)
  • Towel, swimsuit
  • Water bottle, a few snacks
  • Simple gifts for children and people we may meet (coca leaves, pencils, crayons, fruit, toothbrush + toothpaste, soap, a notebook, hair clips, small toys, etc.)
  • A musical instrument (if you wish)
  • Your adventurous spirit—and that beautiful smile

If you don’t have some of the items above, let us know—we may be able to lend them.

If we are more than 5 people, we place suitcases and backpacks on the roof. In that case, please keep only the essentials with you inside the car.

Food

We want to say this clearly: if you have a specific diet, preparing in harmony with it is a pleasure for us. Please inform us in advance.

To keep the journey steady and supported, we carry plenty of coca leaves, cacao beans, maca, different teas, coffee, fruit, peanuts, and raisins with us along the way.

Day 1

Breakfast — by Lake Urcos (3,156 m)

Homemade muesli (oats, pumpkin seeds, coconut oil, chia seeds, walnuts), homemade yogurt or almond milk, fruit, gluten-free or sourdough bread, avocado, Peru’s lovely green olives and beautiful olive oil, farm eggs from the valley, goat cheese, butter, honey from a community we know, a variety of teas, coffee, and hot chocolate.

Lunch — by Sibinacocha Lake (4,873 m)

A filling quinoa soup with plenty of vegetables, plus salad.

Dinner — by Ccascana Lake (4,900 m)

Vegetable rice cooked at camp, served with yogurt.

Day 2

Breakfast — at camp

Homemade muesli (oats, pumpkin seeds, coconut oil, chia seeds, walnuts), homemade yogurt or almond milk, fruit, gluten-free or sourdough bread, avocado, Peru’s lovely green olives and beautiful olive oil, farm eggs from the valley, goat cheese, butter, honey from a community we know, a variety of teas, coffee, and hot chocolate.

Lunch — in Marcapata (2,870 m)

We eat from the day’s lunch menu at a local restaurant.

Dinner — with an Ausangate view

A hearty quinoa soup with plenty of vegetables, fresh trout from Ausangate’s lakes, served with native-seed potatoes and salad. If you have a preferred dish, please tell us—sometimes we can arrange it in advance.

Day 3

Breakfast — in Ausangate

Homemade muesli (oats, pumpkin seeds, coconut oil, chia seeds, walnuts), homemade yogurt or almond milk, fruit, gluten-free or sourdough bread, avocado, Peru’s lovely green olives and beautiful olive oil, farm eggs from the valley, goat cheese, butter, honey from a community we know, a variety of teas, coffee, and hot chocolate.

Lunch

Because we are climbing, simple is best: we chew coca leaves and eat the fruit and nuts we carry with us—and it’s usually enough.

Dinner

Vegetable soup, village chicken cooked in a pan, and fries. If you have a preferred dish, please tell us—sometimes we can arrange it in advance.

Participation Fee
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Price ($)750550500450400375350

Extras

If you’d like to do the ascent on horseback (Pacchanta option only), it’s $25 per person. Horseback riding here is quite different from what most people imagine—gentle, simple, and surprisingly easy. The horses are small and very calm. Each horse is led by a local person walking beside it, holding a rope. Even those who have never ridden before usually find they can do the climb comfortably on horseback.

If you prefer to camp up by the lake instead of sleeping in rooms near the hot springs (Pacchanta or Upis), it’s $70 per person. In that case, we leave early on Day 2, climb up during the day, and spend the night by the lake, up high.

Accommodation

For the first night, we have two gentle options:

  • We can camp by the lake, or
  • We can sleep in beds at a very simple guesthouse in Phinaya, a tiny village about 45 minutes from the lake.

If we camp, we get to taste something rare: sleeping at very high altitude, camping up among the mountain tops—held by silence and stars. And there’s another beautiful detail: we bring wood with us, so we can light a proper campfire. At these altitudes, there are no trees, no wood—nothing grows. But this is one of the differences we can create, and it becomes a very special part of the night.

For the second night, if you choose Upis, we should prepare you: accommodation is very basic. There are only three rooms in total—one with one double bed, one with two single beds, and one with five single beds. There are plenty of blankets, so we can sleep warm, but the sheets and mattresses are far below standard. If you prefer, we can provide a sleeping bag, together with clean thermal base layers that we wash after every use.

If you choose Pacchanta, you will most likely sleep with cleaner, newer sheets compared to Upis. We usually stay in five-person rooms, though if you wish, it can sometimes be possible to arrange a two-person room. And again, if you prefer, we can provide a sleeping bag with clean thermal base layers washed after every use.

And if you’d rather stay in a tent instead of local rooms—either beside the hot springs or up by the lakes—we can camp again, just like on the first night.

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