High-Altitude Journeys · Route 7 · 2N/3D
The Amazon + Machu Picchu
A Tour around Apu Veronica, Crossing from the Andes into the Amazon, a Tasting at an Indigenous Family’s Organically-Run Coffee Farm, a Special Waterfall in the Amazon, and Machu Picchu
We designed this route for those who don’t want to go to Machu Picchu via the classic tourist route, and for those looking for an opportunity to experience a natural wonder like the Amazon.
On this route, we cross the Malaga Mountain Pass, which separates the Andes from the Amazon. There (as a true cacao lover, I can tell you), you will most likely drink the best hot chocolate you’ve ever had in your life, see Veronica Mountain up close, and be able to connect closely with both culture and nature (in both the Andes and the Amazon).
We travel into the region where all of Cusco’s tropical products come from (including coca, coffee, and cacao). While we are at 3,000 meters in the Sacred Valley, on the road we climb up to 4,350 meters, and then descend to Quillabamba at 1,000 meters.
There, we visit a small family-run coffee farm producing high-quality coffee, learn the coffee process, and join a special coffee tasting prepared for us. We also walk to a truly special waterfall. We spend one night in the high rainforest, experiencing the Amazon’s warmth and nature.
The next day, we can stop at Santa Teresa’s beautiful hot springs. Then we continue by vehicle to the other end of the Sacred Valley, and from there we reach Aguas Calientes (the town right below Machu Picchu) via an easy and very enjoyable 2.5-hour walk along the river inside the Sacred Valley.
Your return is by the panoramic train, because that, too, is a beautiful experience. (If you prefer, you can also return by car in the same way to save money.)
The Route
Summary
- Sacred Valley - Ollantaytambo
- Click for the satellite photo of the climb from Ollantaytambo
- Ollantaytambo - Abra Malaga Mountain Pass [4,350m]
- Click for the satellite image of the Malaga Mountain Pass
- Birdwatching Association footage about Apu Veronica and the Malaga Mountain Pass
- Descent toward the Amazon: Santa Maria [1,172m]
- Coffee time at a farm run by an Indigenous family
- Trekking: Waterfall (2 km, easy, 1 hour)
- One night in Quillabamba [1,000m]
- Santa Maria - Santa Teresa [1,480m]
- Cocalmayo Hot Springs
- Video about Santa Teresa village and the hot springs
- Santa Teresa - Hidroelectrica [1,805m]
- Trekking: Aguas Calientes [2,050m] (10 km, easy, 2.5 hours) (or train option)
- 1 night in Aguas Calientes
- Machu Picchu
- Huayna Picchu (optional)
- Return to Ollantaytambo by train
Details
Sacred Valley-Quillabamba Route:
I depart from Vamoss Experience (San Salvador). I meet you in Pisac (or at any point you prefer), we chew coca, load your bags into our vehicle, and set off.
After traveling about 2 hours along the Urubamba/Vilcanota River from the Sacred Valley toward Ollantaytambo, we turn into a side valley, begin the ascent, and climb via a winding road to the Malaga Mountain Pass [4,350m]. We travel with the view of Veronica Mountain [5,893m], one of the 12 mountains believed to “hold” Cusco, and of course we stop at this beautiful pass. If you wish, we can walk 800 meters from the pass to a hill where we can see Veronica clearly.
Here, there is a small café run by a very special cacao producer using a unique fermentation process. If you wish, you can buy their cacao products and—everyone I’ve taken there agrees—drink an exceptionally good hot chocolate.
From the pass, we begin descending toward the Yanatile Valley, which runs parallel to the Sacred Valley and is known locally simply as “the Valley.” The road is 215 km and takes between 4 and 5 hours.
Quillabamba
Many of Cusco’s tropical products (including coca, coffee, and cacao) come from this valley. We are in the Amazon now. We pass through fertile lands known as the high rainforest, and we see tropical products being sold everywhere.
Amazon people, culture, nature, air, and crops are completely different. Quillabamba is a small town of 30,000 in the middle of lush greenery. Life here is much faster than in the mountains, and people are much warmer.
We will walk around, visit the local market with products quite different from the Andes, then visit a small coffee farm run by a local family to learn about their high-quality coffee production process, join a coffee degustation prepared especially for us, and walk to a very special waterfall.
We stay one night in Quillabamba with the sound of the river, and the next day after breakfast we set off toward Machu Picchu.
Santa Teresa Hot Springs:
After Santa Maria [1,172m], we reach Santa Teresa [1,480m].
Here are some of the most beautiful natural hot springs in all Cusco. If you wish, we take about a 1-hour break to rest in the hot springs located inside the Amazon. From Santa Teresa, we have about 1 hour to reach Hidroelectrica in normal conditions, on a road with many cliff edges.
The road from Santa Teresa to Hidroelectrica used to be a difficult stone road, but a new road construction has been ongoing for some time.
Trekking or Train Trip: Hidroelectricia-Aguas Calientes:
At Hidroelectrica we park the vehicle and, with our backpacks, start walking toward Machu Picchu from the other side of the Sacred Valley (toward Pisac). For 10 km, we walk beside the train tracks through nature that is not only lush green but truly special, until we reach Aguas Calientes. The walk usually takes 2.5–3 hours. Because we are at low altitude and always by the river, the weather is warm and the walk is easy.
For those who don’t want to walk, there is now a train option here too: a 1-hour train ride runs right next to the walking route and can take you to Aguas Calientes.
Aguas Calientes (1 Night)
We stay one night in Aguas Calientes, the town right below Machu Picchu. This is not an old Inca town; it is a very touristy village that formed after Machu Picchu was discovered. Without getting too caught in the crowds, we have dinner at one of the 2–3 friendly restaurants we like, then we rest—because tomorrow is a special day.
Machu Picchu (and maybe Huayna Picchu)
Early in the morning, we go up to Machu Picchu by shuttle. There isn’t much to say—this truly is a Wonder of the World. Going early is great: the light is strong, the clouds are dynamic, and the crowds are smaller.
With those who wish (requires extra payment and advance notice), we climb Huayna Picchu. This is another summit within Machu Picchu, said to be Huayna Capac’s meditation spot, and perhaps one of the most important energy centers of the ruins.
After visiting this mystical place, we descend back to Aguas Calientes. You spend time there and then take the panoramic train in the afternoon to Ollantaytambo. I go to Hidroelectrica and set off by vehicle. We meet at the Ollantaytambo train station.
Return via the panoramic train through the Sacred Valley
Reaching Machu Picchu by car and then on foot is beautiful, and the train journey through the valley is also wonderful. I designed the route so you return by train. (If you don’t want to return by train, we can also return together by vehicle the same way.)
The trains to Ollantaytambo are tourist trains. After a comfortable, panoramic, and very scenic 2-hour ride with large windows, we meet at the Ollantaytambo Train Station, and I drop you off at your accommodation for the night.
There are two railway companies operating toward Machu Picchu. Because PeruRail offers a higher-quality service, we choose this company for your journey.
Sample Program
Our program is not fixed; it takes shape on the road. To help you understand the flow, here is an example program:
Day 1
- 07:00
- Depart toward the Amazon
- 08:30
- We start the ascent by car from the Sacred Valley through a side valley
- 09:30
- Break at the Malaga Mountain Pass
- 10:30
- Lunch in Alfamayo
- 13:00
- Arrival in Quillabamba + Quillabamba Central Market
- 14:30
- Coffee farm
- 15:30
- Trekking: Cataratas del Duende Waterfall
- 18:30
- Dinner
Day 2
- 07:30
- A nice breakfast
- 08:30
- Depart from Quillabamba
- 10:00
- Cocalmayo Natural Hot Springs
- 13:00
- Depart from Santa Teresa
- 14:30
- Trekking: Hidroelectrica – Aguas Calientes (10 km, easy, 2.5 hours)
- 14:50
- Train departure time for those who don’t want to walk
- 17:30
- We are in our rooms in Aguas Calientes (16:30 if we go by train)
Day 3
- 06:30
- Shuttle up to the ruins
- 07:30
- Machu Picchu (on whichever circuit you prefer)
- 11:30
- Aguas Calientes
- 15:30
- Panoramic train departure time
- 18:00
- Meet at Ollantaytambo Train Station
- 20:00
- Arrival
Machu Picchu Ticket Options
With the pandemic era, Peru’s Ministry of Culture created different circuits inside Machu Picchu, and unfortunately it is no longer possible to move freely inside the ruins. Each circuit follows a different path, and on that path we can only walk in one direction. Since this new system can be confusing, we wanted to summarize it briefly here:
Circuit 1: Includes 4 routes that tour the upper part of the ruins. They allow you to see the central and popular areas from above, but they do not take you deep inside.
Route 1-A gives access to the climb to Machu Picchu Mountain, the mountain that gives the site its name. If your priority in Peru is trekking—climbing to high and special places—we recommend Machu Picchu Mountain. This climb takes about 2 hours and is moderately challenging. The summit is around 3,000m.
Route 1-D offers the walk to the Inca Bridge. This is an easy walk and takes about 20 minutes.
Route 1-C takes you to Intipunku, the famous Sun Gate.
All Circuit 1 routes offer a beautiful angle from above; we recommend them for travelers whose priority is photography.
Circuit 2: Includes 2 routes that go the most inside the ruins. You still get a good chance to photograph the ruins from above (though not as much as Circuit 1). They can be completed comfortably in 2–3 hours. There is almost no difference between 2-A and 2-B.
Circuit 3: Passes through the inner parts of the ruins, but does not allow you to see a very wide area. However, those who choose this circuit gain access to special add-ons: Huayna Picchu (3-A), Temple of the Sun (3-B), Great Cave (3-C), or the walk to Huchuy Picchu. The Huayna Picchu climb requires 2–3 hours total time and a meaningful physical effort.
If you experience Peru mainly through a cultural lens, with deep interest in Inca culture and a desire to explore the ruins in more detail, Circuit 2 is usually the most appropriate.
If you experience Peru more in a photographic way, choose Circuit 1.
If you experience Peru more in a spiritual way—and you don’t feel the need to see every corner of Machu Picchu, but rather want to feel its mystic atmosphere, experience its mystery, and climb Huayna Picchu, the most special of the site’s energy points—then Circuit 3 is suitable.
If you want to do more than one circuit, it is also possible to buy two tickets (with an additional cost).
We will also talk about ticket selection during our meeting with you.
You can find detailed information and a map of the circuits on this site:
Machu Picchu Details
Should you go?
First, we should say this clearly: Peru is absolutely, definitely not “just Machu Picchu.” We have had many visitors who came without building their whole program around it—and after seeing other ruins, meeting Indigenous communities, stumbling upon festivals, experiencing high altitudes, the Amazon, or the Pacific coast, they decided not to go to Machu Picchu at all. For example, the Pisac Ruins are very much like Machu Picchu—some would even say more impressive from certain angles.
Seasonality:
Machu Picchu can be visited comfortably all year round. In the rainy season, of course, it rains more—but the rain does not prevent our visit or stop us from seeing the ruins. Still, especially in January–March, choosing an entry time a bit later rather than 6 or 7 a.m. can make the experience more pleasant. The rare situation where the ruins become invisible due to heavy mist happens very infrequently (perhaps once every 1–2 years).
Since the ruins sit at the meeting point of the Andes and the Amazon, the area is generally misty and cloudy throughout the year. But the cloud circulation here is very fast. So the ruins appear, disappear, and appear again—creating an even more mystical atmosphere. For this reason, I personally tend to prefer and recommend going in the rainy season.
Trekking and Machu Picchu:
Salkantay Trek:
Arriving at the ruins after several days of mountain trekking is of course very beautiful. If the walking route in Route 7 feels too simple for you and you like pushing yourself, our suggestion would be the Salkantay Trek. This route is difficult. It includes high passes, but offers magnificent glacier views, the experience of moving around a special mountain like Salkantay, and a real high-altitude journey. Since the route has become very popular, we no longer operate it; many large tour operators out of Cusco offer it, and you can easily find a good company online. Prices vary depending on accommodation standards, but they all follow the same route. With most companies, porters carry your bag.
Inca Trail:
This is the most preferred trekking route to Machu Picchu. It requires reservation months in advance. It is beautiful, yes—but because it has been heavily marketed for a very long time, prices are unnecessarily high and it tends to be overrated. Yes, it is a good route, passing through high altitudes and other Inca ruins. I have never done it; unless you have a specific interest, I don’t particularly recommend it.
We can say with ease: instead of reaching Machu Picchu through these two touristic programs, visiting some hidden but very special ruins around the Sacred Valley and seeing Ausangate Mountain can give you far more than what you would experience on the Salkantay Trek or the Inca Trail.
Buying the Machu Ticket
Machu Picchu entry tickets—depending on the season and the chosen circuit—sell out 2 to 4 months in advance.
If ticket sales on the internet have not yet closed for your dates, we purchase your entry tickets immediately after you make your prepayment and confirm your trip.
If the tickets sold online are already sold out for your travel dates, we obtain your tickets from the Peru Ministry of Culture office in Aguas Calientes, from an additional quota of 1,000 people that opens for the next day. This normally does not change our program. Since we already arrive in Aguas Calientes the day before visiting the ruins, we can usually secure tickets for the next day without waiting too long.
However, on certain periods or days, the number of people coming to use this method can be very high (Easter week, Christmas holidays, etc.). Before we set off toward Machu Picchu, we check the crowd situation through our contacts in Aguas Calientes. At this point, we should note that based on what we learn, we may need to adjust the program.
Although we have used this extra quota for many years without problems, during very busy periods we have also had cases where we needed to buy tickets not for the next day, but for the day after. For this reason, we may need to add one extra “spare day” after the program as a backup.
What to Bring
- Passport
- Sunglasses (polarized if you have them), sunscreen, insect repellent
- (At least) 1 warm layer
- Walking shoes, windbreaker/rain jacket, plastic poncho for heavy rain
- Spare socks, underwear, pants
- Towel, swimsuit
- Water bottle, snacks
If you don’t have some of the items above, let us know—we can lend them to you.
If we are more than 5 people, we place suitcases and backpacks on the roof of the vehicle. In that case, please bring only essential items inside the car.
Food
We would like to note that preparing according to your diet (if you have one) is a pleasure for us. Please inform us about it.
Throughout the trip, we bring plenty of coca leaves, cacao beans, maca, different kinds of tea, coffee, fruit, peanuts, and raisins.
Day 1
Lunch in Alfamayo:
At this point overlooking the rainforest from above, we eat from the day’s lunch menu, or—if available (it may not be available every day)—the region’s famous Caldo de Gallina (a hearty village chicken soup with vegetables such as carrot, yuca, three kinds of potatoes, rice, etc.).
Day 2
Breakfast:
We have breakfast at the hotel where we stay. With the extras we bring, we enrich the hotel breakfast: homemade muesli (oats, pumpkin seeds, coconut oil, chia seeds, walnuts), homemade yogurt or almond milk, fruit, gluten-free or sourdough bread, avocado, Peru’s quite good green olives and its lovely olive oil, goat cheese, butter, honey from a community we know, a variety of teas, coffee, and hot chocolate.
Other meals:
We did not include other meals in the program, since there are many options available in both Quillabamba and Aguas Calientes.
Participation Fee
| Participation | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fee ($) | 950 | 750 | 640 | 580 | 530 | 500 | 480 |
Extras and Discounts
On the way there, for those who do not want to do the 3-hour walk between Hidroelectrica and Aguas Calientes, a train departs at 14:50. Those who want to go by train will need to purchase a $40 train ticket.
If, on your travel dates, the quotas for Huayna Picchu or Montaña Machu Picchu climbs are not yet sold out—and if you would like to see one of these points—there will be a $15 price difference.
If you prefer to return by car instead of using the train, you will pay $100 less per person.
If you want to upgrade the class of your return train ticket, there is an extra $50. The difference between these two classes is a folkloric dance show during about 20 minutes of the 1 hour 45 minute journey, and the enjoyment of larger windows.
If you want to take the return train journey on the Luxury Hiram Bingham 12, there is an extra $490 per person. To be honest, we don’t really recommend it, because it runs only once a day and departs around sunset.
If, beyond my guidance, you would also like an additional licensed Peruvian guide, we can arrange one at the entrance to the ruins. They charge about 150–250 soles (40–60 USD) for the group.
If you want to stay in a different hotel in Aguas Calientes, a price difference will apply depending on the hotel. You can find details in the accommodation section.
If you want to do more than one circuit inside Machu Picchu by buying two different tickets, there will be an extra ticket cost.
Accommodation
Quillabamba is a destination that almost no foreign tourists visit, and for that reason its cultural fabric has not been disrupted. Here we will stay at one of the best eco-hotels catering mainly to local tourists: Eco Hotel Villa Suites.
In Aguas Calientes, some of the hotels we prefer are: Sayac Marca Classic Inn, Inkas Land, Margarita’s House, Machu Picchu Dream. These are simple traveler hotels run by Peruvians. The rooms are, of course, very clean and have private bathrooms, but they do not offer the luxury or modernity of large hotel chains, and they serve only an American-style breakfast.
If you have a specific place you particularly want for accommodation, please let us know in advance. In that case, we make the reservation and kindly ask you to cover the price difference.
Average per-person price difference if you switch your accommodation to one of the hotels below:
- Ausangate Hotel: $40
- Jaya Suite: $70
- Casa del Sol: $100
- Inka Terra: $200
- Sanctuary Lodge: $740